Fisherman cabinReine Rorbu
A red cabin on stilts over the water, converted from a cod station. Two bedrooms, a wood stove and a very short walk to the sea.
from $205 per night

Europe · Mountains
Peaks straight out of the sea, above the Arctic Circle.
01Overview
Fishing villages, white beaches that look tropical until you touch the water, and mountains that go from sea level to a thousand metres in under two kilometres. Winter for the lights, summer for the sun that never sets.
Key information
02Things to experience
Fifteen hundred stone steps up, and then the view that is on the cover of every book about this coast.
February trips only. We drive to whichever beach has the clearest sky and wait with a flask of something hot.
A morning on a working skrei boat in Henningsvær during the winter season, which is not a comfortable morning.
An hour over the pass with everything on your back, a night in a tent on white sand, and no way to call anybody.



03The route
This is the shape most people travel. Every part of it can be lengthened, swapped or dropped, and private departures run on any date you like.
Adjust this routeIn over the islands, which is worth a window seat, then east to the first rorbu.
The fishing village, the harbour, and two walks depending entirely on the forecast.
The postcard end of the island chain. Reinebringen if it is clear, Kvalvika if it is not.
The last village on the road, the stockfish museum, and a long afternoon of nothing at all.
The drive back up the chain with stops for every beach, then the evening flight.
04Where you stay
Family guesthouses, refuges and restored houses. We have slept in every one of them, and the prices below are what you would pay direct.
Fisherman cabinA red cabin on stilts over the water, converted from a cod station. Two bedrooms, a wood stove and a very short walk to the sea.
from $205 per night
Harbour lodgeRestored cabins in Ballstad with a sauna on the dock and a kitchen that smokes its own fish.
from $260 per night
Village roomsSix rooms above a gallery on the harbour. Simple, warm, and you can hear the boats leave at four.
from $145 per night

05From the field
“In February you chase the light. In June you cannot get away from it.”
Lofoten is a geological accident that happens to be inhabited. The mountains rise out of the Norwegian Sea with no foothills, and the villages are squeezed into whatever flat ground is left over. We run this trip twice a year for two very different reasons. In February the sun barely clears the ridge, the sea is green-black, and there is a real chance of the aurora on any clear night. In June there is no night at all, and you can be on a summit at one in the morning in full daylight. Both are worth doing. Neither is warm.
Written by the Wayfare planner who runs this route.

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