Medina riadRiad Zitoun
Eight rooms around a courtyard in Marrakech. Cool tiled floors, a roof terrace, and breakfast under the orange tree.
from $95 per night

Africa · Desert
Where the road stops and the dunes start.
01Overview
The last village before the Erg Chebbi dunes. We take the long way there through the Atlas and the gorges, and we stay two nights in the sand rather than the usual rushed one.
Key information
02Things to experience
A camp at the base of the big dune, reached on foot or by camel depending on how your knees feel.
Forty minutes uphill in soft sand, in the dark, for the best twenty minutes of the entire trip.
Three-hundred-metre walls a few metres apart, and a river you can walk in when the day gets hot.
Not a performance for tourists. The camp crew play because that is what you do when the fire is lit.



03The route
This is the shape most people travel. Every part of it can be lengthened, swapped or dropped, and private departures run on any date you like.
Adjust this routeA night in a riad in the medina and an evening in the food stalls of Jemaa el-Fnaa.
The High Atlas pass, a stop at Aït Benhaddou, and a night in the Dades valley.
The gorge in the morning, palm groves in the afternoon, then east towards the sand.
Two nights in the dunes. Sunrise, sunset, and a very long afternoon of doing nothing.
The rose valley, a night in Skoura, and a final evening back in Marrakech.
04Where you stay
Family guesthouses, refuges and restored houses. We have slept in every one of them, and the prices below are what you would pay direct.
Medina riadEight rooms around a courtyard in Marrakech. Cool tiled floors, a roof terrace, and breakfast under the orange tree.
from $95 per night
Desert campTen tents with proper beds and a hot shower. Rugs, a fire pit, and nothing at all for thirty kilometres.
from $135 per night
Palm grove guesthouseA mudbrick house in the palmeraie with six rooms, a cold pool, and dinner cooked by the owner's mother.
from $78 per night

05From the field
“One night in the desert is a photograph. Two nights is a memory.”
Everybody does Merzouga in a hurry. Marrakech at dawn, nine hours in a minibus, one night in a camp, straight back. It is a waste of a remarkable place. We give the drive three days, stopping in the Dades gorge and the Todra, eating where the drivers eat, and arriving with enough time to watch the dunes change colour for two evenings instead of one. The second night is the one that gets you: the group has thinned out, the camp is quiet, somebody starts drumming, and the temperature drops about fifteen degrees in an hour.
Written by the Wayfare planner who runs this route.

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